Gubbio's Ancient Festival- Festa dei Ceri

The legend:

Gubbio's "Festa dei Ceri" in simple terms translates as the Festival of the Candles. 

Image Source: Google

But let me tell you that there are no candles in this festival. Instead, you will see huge long wooden sticks or "Ceri" that are part of a wooden base or a "Barelle", each with the wax statue of a Saint.

Festa dei Ceri is Gubbio's way of honoring its Patron Saint - Ubaldo. Gubbio falls under the commune of Perugia and has always believed in the miraculous abilities of its Bishop Ubaldo. I think it is a good way to honor someone but who would have thought it would be through an ancient festival.

It is unclear how old the Festa dei Ceri is but legend says it may be as old as 8 centuries. I sure felt as if I had traveled back in time when I was in Gubbio because everything was so traditional and done as per the customs and rituals that were followed aeons ago.

The festival:

Festa dei Ceri involves the entire town and I think that is the commendable and gives a spirit of unity. Every man, woman and child, young and old, upholds the tradition and folklore behind this festival. 

The town is divided in three different groups that can be distinguished by the colors of their clothes:

-Saint Ubaldo team wears Yellow
-Saint Antonio team wears Black
-Saint Georgio team wears Blue

At 5:00 a.m. on May 15 every year, there is a mass at the Church. Around 9-9:30 am people start to gather at the Piazza Grande where the Ceri has to be lifted by their respective teams. The Ceri contains a wax statue of each saint and at 11:30 each team undertakes three laps in the Piazza with the Ceri. There is shouting and general enthusiasm and merriment in the onlookers.

Image Source: Google

The octagonal Ceri, which weighs more than 250kgs each, is then taken to different streets of the town, moving around cutely and getting swayed by different hands. Its fabulous to see how the people Italians celebrate. 

After some time, each Ceri is rested on a base in Via Savelli della Porta while the teams go for lunch. Unfortunately, I missed that because there was a bus strike in Perugia (yes that happens a lot in Italy) that day and since I could not get a hotel in Gubbio, I had to head back to Perugia by 4:00 p.m.

But a few locals that I befriended there told me that at around 6:00 p.m, the Ceri are to return the Basilica of Saint Ubaldo, which is located on top of Gubbio, in Mount Ingino.

Image Source: Google

In the paper next day, I saw a shot of the festival from above. I was stunned to see it for a minute and it was hard to believe that I really managed to stay intact among all that crowd and chaos.

If you ever plan to go to Gubbio during the Festa remember that as a tourist or a spectator try not to do anything that upsets the locals of the town. Always make sure you get a good spot as you may be pushed and shoved in that crowd especially when the Ceri arrives at the piazza. I really regret not booking a place sooner in Gubbio, so whenever you visit try to stay in the area for a day or two and get the general vibe of the town.

I planned my entire trip to Italy to just view this festival and I am thrilled and proud to have been involved in something that is so ancient and medieval in some way. 

Festa dei Ceri is something no one should miss if they are going to Italy.